Chitosan in cosmetics: Characterization and analysis

Chitosan in cosmetics is gaining popularity due to its versatile benefits. Chitosan skincare products are gaining attention for their potential to enhance skin hydration enhances moisture retention, promoting hydration and improving skin elasticity. It is a natural biopolymer of polysaccharide nature, its biocompatibility and biodegradability make it ideal for cosmetic, wound care and dermal filler applications. Chitosan benefits for skin include antimicrobial properties that help reduce acne and improve skin health and favorable application to wound-care and anti-inflammatory effects, making it suitable for sensitive and irritated skin. In dermal fillers, chitosan provides a natural, biocompatible scaffold that promotes tissue regeneration and smooths wrinkles, offering a natural and effective solution for aging skin concerns.

Chitosan is a linear polysaccharide consisting of glucosamine and N-acetyl glucosamine conventionally derived mainly from crustacean shells. The charged (cationic) nature of chitosan gives this polymer a mucoadhesive property. Chitosan salts have been explored as a matrix or scaffold material for tissue regeneration as well as in non-parenteral delivery systems for challenging drugs. Key chemical and physical parameters relevant for the functionality of chitosan across these applications is responsible for driving development of new commercial applications such as chitosan in skincare  or biomedical uses. Understanding the chemical nature and physical characteristics of chitosan is important to product development and assessment of quality and properties.

Advanced Chitosan Characterization and Quality Assurance for Cosmetic

Our scientists deliver a comprehensive portfolio of cutting-edge analytical techniques designed to accelerate formulation development and ensure consistent, high-quality results for both chitosan ingredient producers and finished product manufacturers

Chitosan Assay by Capillary Electrophoresis: Our scientists have developed a new assay method employing capillary electrophoresis can be used based on the overall electrical charge and physico-chemical properties of hyaluronic acid and chitosan. This approach offers a rapid (<5 min), reliable (R²>0.99; %CV and %RSD <10%) and specific (retention time, absorbance spectrum) approach to quantifying hyaluronic acid and chitosan in formulated products. 

Heavy metals: The LaCoMeD laboratory holds ISO 9001 and ISO 17025 (COFRAC n°1-2411, Scope is available on www.cofrac.fr.) accreditations, assuring competence, quality and reliability of testing results. We deliver rapid analysis services for trace heavy metals testing and elemental impurities analysis in all types of matrices using inductively coupled plasma with detection by mass spectrometry (ICP-MS). Our team can perform Heavy metal testing according to ISO standard ISO 21392: 2021 for measurement of chromium, cobalt, nickel, cadmium, lead, antimony or arsenic or other established industry methods.

Cosmetic Allergens: Our scientists have developed a LC-MS/MS method using Multiple Reaction Monitoring (MRM) to accurately identify and quantify 57 potential allergens in cosmetics, offering efficient analysis that minimizes false positives and ensures accurate labeling for consumers.

Residual solvents: We provide expert residual solvent determination and identification, working to established industry methods such as USP <467>, and other regulatory standards or industry established methods. 

Proteins assay: Using colorimetric methods (Bradford method), we determine protein content, which can be important to understanding the presence of potential allergens.

Restricted and prohibited substance in cosmetics: Our cosmetic testing experts offer cost-effective, specialized programs that include routine screening, quantification of prohibited or restricted substances, and method development using advanced analytical technologies. Services cover formaldehyde quantification, heavy metals analysis, fragrance allergen identification, phthalate detection, and nanoparticle testing to ensure regulatory compliance and product safety.

Microbiology and Bioburden and Endotoxin Testing:

Our microbiology testing team conduct bacterial endotoxins testing to detect or quantify bacterial endotoxins of gram-negative bacterial origin as per the European Pharmacopeia 2.6.14 as part of our quality control suite of services. Our microbiology team also provide bioburden testing according to ISO 11731-1 to help clients evaluate sterilization processes, monitor control of raw materials, components and manufacturing processes.

Physical Properties of Chitosan Products

For dermal filler products and composite dermal fillers containing hyaluronic acid and chitosan, evaluation of the physical properties of the chitosan is key. Properties such as the degree of deacetylation of chitosan, viscosity and molecular weight distribution, can impact dermal filler application success, performance and longevity. We use Gel permeation chromatography (GPC) for chitosan molecular weight determination and apply a range of rheology approaches and mechanical/physical test methods to help drive insight into physical properties. 

Bringing Quality and Safety to Life: Characterisation of chitosan

From initial concept through to finished product, we support your entire quality assurance journey with advanced analytical and regulatory-aligned testing. With more than 20 years of experience supporting leading global brands, Intertek provides scientifically robust data that delivers deep insight into material properties, formulation performance, and product safety, helping you minimise risk and maximise product confidence.

Centre of Excellence: Over 20+ years of analytical testing experience supporting beauty product innovation and production
Highly Skilled Scientists: A proven track record of first-to-market approaches to solve complex regulatory and quality challenges.
Global Regulatory Support: Expertise helps ensure compliance with key cosmetic regulations through testing for contaminants, allergens, restricted or banned substances, preservatives, metals, and more.
Accredited Laboratory: The LaCoMeD laboratory holds ISO 9001 and ISO 17025 (COFRAC n°1-2411, Scope is available on www.cofrac.fr.) accreditations, assuring competence, quality and reliability of testing results.
End-to-End Support: From raw materials and formulation analysis to finished cosmetics products and packaging testing
Support for Production & Quality Control: Robust testing solutions help identify and resolve quality issues during production
Data-Driven Decisions: Strong analytical insight helps our clients to reduce risk, optimise cosmetic formulations and ensure trusted, compliant products.